FASHION AT IUAV 2015: VENICE IS TRENDY.

Last Friday, “Fashion at Iuav” closed down during the sunset: the series of meetings curated by the Fashion Design degrees at Iuav University of Venice, that celebrates its tenth anniversary.

After 24 hours of words, images, projects and ideas concerning the Italian fashion system, a marathon thought and organized by Maria Luisa Frisa, and Federico Sarica, editor of Studio Magazine, “Italy is Trendy” (L’Italia è di moda) concluded it all with the Graduation Show: the final fashion show at the ex stockhouses in San Basilio, between the Cottonmill and Ligabue stockhouses, in an innovative Venetian location, a “third landscape” between the water and the industrial side, behind the furnace.

The real protagonists were the students about to earn the bachelor’s degree or the master bachelor one: they presented their collections of clothes and accessories, led by many designers such as Arthur Arbesser, Veronika Allmayer-Beck, Michel Bergamo, Cristina Zamagni, Fabio Quaranta, Paulo Melim Andersson.

New clothes and classical ones, revisited in a contemporary way, with geometries and colors, androgynous or unisex ideas, The New, seen as the Contrast, and the Paradox, as Research.

“The challenge was -and still is- to create an Italian fashion school able to focus on a formative project that can influence the identities and qualities of the Italian fashion world, not in order to close our boundaries but to continue being the protagonists of and exploding and shimmering system” said Maria Luisa Frisa.

The Graduation Show of the BA presented the collection of the studio led by Maria Luisa Frisa, edited by Arthur Arbesser and Mario Lupano, Sound: NAME/AGE Diego Manfreda and Maurice Uzzan with Marco Marin and Riccardo Salin. Hair & Makeup: I Baldan Parrucchieri, Aveda. Sartorial specialist: Maria Marin, modeler specialist: Catia Giacon.

Here’s the collections shown: Sara Ceradini’s clothes for a sporty woman, not delicate nor precise, with strong lines, intentionally masculine; the sportswear collection of Marcello Chiodin, for those men both comfortable and formal with elegant fabric; Giacomo Frasson presented his collection, masculine, relaxed, disordered and soft, just as Domenico Lazzaro with his large and superabundant clothes, very heavy in contrast with their light fabric, defined as “migrant” Lazzaro himself. Caterina Cesaretti, Olando Masiero, Marta Laurenti, the duo Anita Elisa Pierobon and Xhefri Londo, the couple Francesca Napoletano and Federica Zumerle presented their collections that are searching for perfection, with their blue, red and white colors that recall the Air Force uniforms.

Bandanas, pastel colors and stripes for Simone Rossi, disordered and assembled clothes for Giulia Roman, asymmetries and details directly from the Expressionism for Francesca Vanzj, American street, sneakers and musical rhythms for Marco Vedovato, experimentation and folk contamination for turbo-folk clothes made by the Macedonian Marjia Vlakeska. Rich dresses for Andrea Pandolfi, but we also saw Milena Gabrijelcic’s severe and free ones, other clothes for “dumb” teenagers created by Eleonora Corbanese, the London nineties-style ones for Ilenia Pizzato and Valentina Tamiello, Sofia Prandoni’s clothes, both easy and messy -she’s very accurate in graphics. Mine or Yours? -that’s what one of her creations tells.

The Triennium Graduation Show went on with the accessories collection of the final laboratory. The fashion show, led by Veronika Allmayer-Beck and Mario Lupano, presented various accessories: from the classical and smooth shapes to other, ironic and well-structured; from black ones to some very colorful, childish or for adults, made of leather or fabrics, clean and aggressive, with visual and tactile contrast: all thought and created by Chiara Aneloni, Micol Bano, Valentina Carbone, Jessica Crespan, Sara Tognoni, Erica Tasinazzo, Sara Trame and Lucia Villanova.

For the gran final, the BA Show, guided by Mario Lupano, Fabio Quaranta e Cristina Zamagni.
SOUND DESIGN: NAME/AGE, Hair & Makeup: I Baldan Parrucchieri, Aveda. Sartorial specialist: Maria Marin, modeler specialists: Catia Giacone and Maria Favaro.

Here’s the works of the students. Marta Busatto presented her revisited pinstriped suits, with thick blue red and white stripes, inspired to the voodoo spirituality. Francesca Piacentini’s Leather, with curated cuts for her peachy, blue and cream-white clothes. Esther Rigatoni presented heavy volumes, mountains in the background and grey tones “common both to Man and Woman”. Filippo Soffiati with his decontextualized clothes, that are about to look like costumes, because “we don’t know who’s by horse and who’s the horse” -it all seems bizarre and mixed in a Don Chisciotte’s way. Adriana Suriano showed her silken pyjamas, elegant and free. Light fabrics, airy lines for Monica Evola, just as the candid and sacrificial ones by Barbara La Cecilia. And other more: Giovanna Angeli, Francesca Cifani, Martina Diotallevi, Alice Frezza, Aleksandra Radoicic, Tonia Salomè.

Words:
Eleonora Milner
Translation:
Bianca Baroni
Photos:
Caterina de Zottis
Tobia Piatto
Marco Forlin
Cristian Dorme
Giacomo Cosua

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