LFW : HALLIE SARA SS18
[dropcap type="1"]V[/dropcap]enturing into her own custom prints this season, which Sara originally developed for her collaboration with BMW i8 electric car. Sara created print work using natural elements as inspiration finding a stone onyx pattern reminiscent of other natural beauties such as the Earth’s beautiful beaches, oceans, cloudy kies and sunsets. The pre-viewing party was actually held at BMW Park Lane store where you get to see the collection as well as the i8 cars. Very impressive!
The SS18 collection is very natural in colour, a lot beige, pale pink, white, brown and black. The designs of each outfit are very feminine and masculine at the same time. For example, you can see a pretty blouse and then boom a strong statemented jacket. Super fine tailored wool suiting worn with soft silk blouses, dressing and tunics. Sara has continued her signature use of bias cut layering of organic fluid fabrics juxtaposed with chic, clean and fitted leather shape biker jacket. Each piece from this collection can be worn for any occasion, very versatile collection!
The SS18 collection is also handcrafted from the finest materials by skilled artisans. Sara supports a system where garments are produced in keeping with all social responsibilities from manufacturing through to retail. For instance, the working conditions of the artisans producing the garments have set new standards of how a brand should uphold ethical and humanitarian values. I really like that Sara is acknowledging her team behind her collections.
Photos courtesy of HPR AGENCY (photos by Simon Armstrong)
LFW: BORA AKSU SS18
The Bora Aksu SS18’s collection is inspired by Lady Mihri Mushik, a brave and extraordinary woman who gave up a privileged life to pursue a passion for art and a bohemian existence. Musfik returned to Turkey in 1913 to become the nation’s first contemporary female artist.
Aksu created garments that reflects Mufik’s life and aristocratic roots were intertwined with a bohemian existence, mirrored in the ‘kutnu’ fabric – a hand-woven textile woven in the hand looms of Gaziantep, South Turkey. The combination of soft feminine fabrics and structured shapes adds a romantic, but bold silhouette. Much of the detailing is directly inspired by Musfik’s early wardrobe, with a layering effect created by recurring embroidery in graphic lines and shapes
The composition of silk and cotton dates back to the sixtieth century and the fabric was the symbol of nobility and power in the Ottoman Empire. It was mainly used in the kaftans of sultans and emperors, while today, it’s produced by a small group of craftsmen determined to keep the tradition alive. This kutnu fabric is deployed throughout the collection in shades of deep red, pink, blue and dark navy, utilised alongside with silk organzas, cotton and silk habotais – a fabric first pioneered in Japan.
Overall, the Bora Aksu SS18 is a very cute, classic and elegant collection. There are some pieces that I really like, especially those pussy-bow blouses and dresses, the colour range and those shoes! So, congratulations to a wonderful collection! Looking forward to the next collection by Aksu.
Photos courtesy of SPRING LONDON
LFW : PAUL COSTELLOE SS18
The Paul Costelloe SS18 collection is very very very bright, romantic and colourful, yet still soft and feminine. It has taken me from autumn London to summer European cruise tour on a yacht. I absolutely adore those long statement party dresses and the details and cutting are exquisite, especially the big bow tied around the neck. They are made with 100% pure Irish linen, with pleated panel yolks and tulle underskirts, bring an abundance of romance to this poetic romantic collection.
The SS18 collection also has few statement pieces, including an exclusive chequer-board print designed by William Costelloe – the iconic print for this season. This collection is about celebrating Spring with style - beautiful flounce coats in silk jacquard, summer-weight wool and appliqued cotton; soft pastel dresses and jumpsuits. Another surprise from the collection is men walking with Paul’s signature tailor two pieces suits in light summer-weight wools and heritage Irish linens.
Lastly, there were some latex elements in the Paul Costelloe SS18 collection, adding a touch of provocative fell to an otherwise ultra-soft look. The accessories are also one of the highlight of the collection – bright colours oversized totes, mini Jessica bags and bold statemented jewellery by Sarah Angold.
LFW : AADNEVIK SS18
The AADNEVIK SS18 is truly wonderful, fun and amazing, but at the same time, still, preserves the elegance. The collection is very bright and colourful, it is like a walking sparkle rainbow. Details include French lace imitates patterns of the trapeze, while the prints are based on the carved elegant chariots containing the finest specimens of lions, tigers, wolves, bears, panthers, leopards and hyenas. A lot of metallic fabrics are used alongside with draping soft chiffon. There are also some leather pieces, which enchaining the craftsmanship and imitates the strong and powerful ringmaster of the circus.
This is a jaw-dropping collection, the movement of the dresses when models walked out is absolutely fantastic! It is the same as when the lions come out of their cages and performed with their trainers, the excitement and anticipation to see what is coming out next is unreal and beyond any words can be described.
About AADNEVIK
AADNEVIK is a London based luxury womenswear label as design partnership between Hila and Kristian Aadnevik. Kristen Aadnevik had worked with powerful houses such as Alexander McQueen, Versace and Roberto Cavalli before focusing on developing their own label. The designers have managed to create a new concept blending between ready to wear and haute couture together, offering a seasonal collection with a made-to-measure service for clients. They have developed particular handcrafted production techniques and fuse together alluring shades, luxury leathers and lavish embellishment, to evoke these diverse, rich setting and striking culture. The label is well loved by worldwide celebrities include: Rihanna, Beyonce, Madonna, Selena Gomez and many more.
LFW : LEAF XIA SS18
Leaf Xia SS18 collection is very upbeat, bright and projects the sense of freedom. The collection is like a walking rainbow, I particularly love the colours block coat with lace pleat details. The details of each piece are to perfection, very girly at the same time, you can still deliver your own personality. I also love the details of the cut shoulder dress, the ruffle as the detail where the holes are is a genius, it highlights the design as well as the shoulders for summer. You can pair any pieces from this collection with anything and still look very vibrant and elegant at the same time.
Xia has used the highest quality fabrics and unique finishing to communicate her vision that is amongst chaos there is beauty, passion and happiness, combining the fashion world and the real world around us. I truly love this collection and the colours do make me feel happier and looking forward to the summer. Leaf Xia is definitely another one to watch out for!
About Leaf Xia
Leaf Xia is born in China, graduated from Parsons the New School of Design and showcased her graduate work exhibited in the Saks Fifth Avenue Window Display and Parsons 67th Annual Fashion Benefit Runaway Show in 2015. Xia's collection had been published in Vogue UK, Elle, Grazia, Glamour, The Muse and Schon. She was also named one of Fashion Scout's Ones to Watch designers.
LFW : HAIZHEN WANG SS18
The collection consists of denim which is Wang's signature. A lot of lace pleat and layering different texture of fabrics, which elevating the femininity. Haizhen Wang SS18 collection is a fusion of denim and workwear, adding a sense of casual and feminine elements onto each piece. The Haizhen Wang SS18 has continued to work with Swarovski and Nike.
The collection consists of denim which is Wang's signature. A lot of lace pleat and layering different texture of fabrics, which elevating the femininity. Haizhen Wang's SS18 collection is a fusion of denim and workwear, adding a sense of casual and feminine elements onto each piece. The Haizhen Wang SS18 has continued to work with Swarovski and Nike.
I love the colour scheme of the collection, the bold orange colour on top of black; denim blue on top of baby blue raffle shirt, which created a very statemented and contrasted look. Also, the tailored oversized jacket with black graphics on top of the grey, totally genius. There are some other statemented pieces from the Haizhen Wang SS18 collection as well, including the accessories - the fencing masks with crystal details and crystal details on the sneakers - ' Made with care' and 'Fragile'. The Haizhen Wang SS18 Collection definitely live up to his reputation in the fashion industry. Wang is known for his avant-garde, modernist approach to elegance, hence the fencing masks and over the top ruffle shirt.
About Haizhen Wang
Haizhen Wang trained in womenswear at Central Saint Martin and has become recognised for his avant-garde, modernist approach to elegance in the fashion industry. Wang has used his artisanal approach when designing and inspired by architecture, mixing masculine into the feminine design with architectural references and classic tailoring with bold design are part of Haizhen's genius aesthetic. Wang is also part of a collective of new contemporary designers that are making an impact in both Europe and Asia as momentum builds globally for designers who have an affinity with China.
Do you want to read more about fashion on Positive Magazine?
LFWM : HARRY XU SS18
Harry Xu's SS18 collection seemed to be taken its theme from a sci-fi adventure. Harry Xu decided to build the SS18 collection on the sentiment of romanticised masculinity with a unique take on contemporary tailoring. The collection is also inspired by the Scandinavian painter Yrjö Edelmann. Read more
LFWM : MICHIKO KOSHINO SS18
Michiko Koshino SS18 is inspired by Michiko's childhood memory. Taking inspirations from the Japanese baseball teams of the 40's & 50's, which is a huge and popular sport in her hometown Osaka.Read more
INTERVIEW WITH DESIGNER - LOU DUNGATE
[dropcap type="1"]L[/dropcap]ou Dungate is an eponymous label based in London, England and founded in 2016. The brand is focusing on luxury knitwear, craftsmanship and ethical production. All items are made in London! Pure and sumptuous cashmere has been sourced and used from Inner Mongolia, spun by a family-run mill in Italy before being knitted into Lou Dungate pieces.
- How did you come up this brand – loudungate?
Lou Dungate is a reflection of where I find myself, after years working with knitwear and wanting to be part of positive changes in the industry. The label is what’s important to me; sustainability in luxury fashion, beautiful craftsmanship and integrity, and hopefully increasingly important to other people too.
- Was it hard to produce clothing within the UK?
Yes and no. Yes because it’s undoubtedly not the cheapest option, and finances are a big obstacle for young designers like me. However, ultimately no - my supplier is amazing, supportive and I firmly believe that local and honest manufacturing is the future of fashion.
- When you are designing and choosing your cashmere, what are the most important things to you?
That the fibre is completely natural, of the highest possible quality and that the design is timeless, practical and in line with our aesthetic.
- Where do you get the inspiration from?
Natural and man-made forms; and often the relationship between the two. I like how clean lines and geometric shapes can be combined with the fluidity of nature. Knitwear is the construction of stitches, mapped out with methodical and meticulous planning, but taking pleasure from the feel, drape and warmth of the fabric is quite organic and beautifully unmeasurable.
- How can you determine if the cashmere is in good quality?
Cashmere is of the highest quality when the fibre is fine in width, of a good length and when the goat from a herd in Inner Mongolia - where there is a vested interest in ensuring the well-being of the animal and cashmere they product. The best cashmere items are feathery soft to the touch, have a springy quality that retains stretch and, with the correct care, will last a lifetime.
- What interested you the most being a fashion designer?
I fell in to it almost. I hadn’t considered it becoming a career when I was younger, but it’s an incredible form of expression. And now I find that the most rewarding part is the reaction of the wearers. When someone tells you they love wearing something you’ve made, that makes me happy.
- What are your biggest achievements so far?
Starting. Getting my first stockist order from youngbritishdesigners.com Running my own wool shop for 5 years. I still have a lot on my to-do list though!
- What other achievements would you like to achieve for the coming years?
That would be telling, so you will have to wait and see.
- Are you hoping to showcase any of your work during fashion weeks?
Maybe. A friend and I spoke about the democracy of fashion, and how the cyclical nature of fashion weeks might not be so relevant anymore. I also don’t like the idea of scrapping collections and starting again, I think it encourages wastefulness. However, I love the idea of a presentation - cashmere is best seen in person.
- What do you enjoy the most outside the fashion world?
Road-trips with my boyfriend, the cinema, and being with my family and friends.
Visit Lou Dungate's website for more information and you can purchase all of Lou's produces on youngbritishdesigners.com
Photo courtesy of Lou Dungate
Texted by Angel Leung
A,M INAUGURAL BAG COLLECTION
A,M is a luxury brand that is a collaboration between English art director Matt Gill and Swedish designer Ann Nelvig, with the name deriving from the Latin Ante, Meridiem: Before and after midday. The brand combines utilitarian design with modern street wear to create colourful and timeless men’s luggage and accessories.
The collection is comprised of four perfectly contemporary unique style which soon will be iconic – The Hungerford is a trapezoid sports holdall, The Fernley is a backpack, The Shifford is a classic sports holdall and The Furze is a mini flight bag executed in full grain leather. Each style comes in five distinctive colours. My favorite is the Fernley – simple, practical and stylish, perfect for any occasions.
For all styles, there are five distinctive eye catching pastel metallic colour to choose from - Cloud, Lemonade, Mauve, Black and Bronze. Features include textured leather piping, padded leather feet, light weight premium black sports lining and A,M gold foil logo. The Shifford is crafted in Italy with high quality Swedish and Italian components including a hidden zipped exterior webbing pocket, sunken webbing loops, parallel sipper and A,M logo embossed details. With the holiday season approaching, these stylish and practical bags are the prefect gifts, not to mention you have many festive colours to choose from!
Prices ranges from £258 to £408. Visit A,M Website for more information.
Photo courtesy of Sane Communication
Texted by Angel Leung