Berlin fashion week report pt.3
edited by Matteo Menotto
Berlin mode woche at its end with a mixed flavour of the possible faces that the fashion scene of this city could offer. Official calendar brought last days presenting established names and new upcomers: ANJA GOCKEL, BLACKY DRESS, Michael Sontag, KILIAN KERNER, Parsival Cserer. Kaviar Gauche, Michalsky, Marcel Ostertag, VLADIMIR KARALEEV, Irene Luft, MAicco, Stephan Pelger, BlLack NoiR. Here following a report about of the shows that I assisted to in the last two days.
Standing presentation at Römischer Hof, Unter den Linden 10 for this upcomer of Berlin fashion scene. Michael Sontag’s collection is shaped through his passion for design as well as his love for high quality materials. Sophisticated simplicity, flowing silhouettes and unusual cuts characterize his fashion. The outfits appear natural, stylish and minimalistic. Michael Sontag is able to produce fashion that is casual, elegant and innovative all at the same time. In Short – a complete artwork of precious purity. Through the working progress new shapes as well as colour combinations originate. Dresses, coats, blazers, blouses, trousers, skirts, jumpers and cloaks can be combined to create a look that is both elaborate and also suitable for daily use.
The Autumn/Winter 2011 collection „Lie down beside me“ enchants through classic silhouettes with reduced pattern cutting and purist colouring. Bows in various shapes and forms, as well as the vibrant pink, bring about an enchanting focus. This season, floaty fabrics such as silk and chiffon are combined with heavy materials such as: wool, knitwear, velvet and leather. Selected SWAROVSKI ELEMENTS give the collection an extra glamour. Shoulders and seams are accentuated by sparkling cristal accessories. The small black dress, short jackets with pencil skirts and long floating evening dresses paint a particularly feminine picture with strong leather and metal element details. The menswear is made up of a mix of accurately fitting suits and casual trouser-jumper combinations. At the centre if the collection lie the high end materials refining each and every piece. Black functions as key colour and is broken up by shimmering silver and vibrant pink.
The inspiration of this Autumn/Winter 2011 collection is „Urban Nomads“. The designer presents this as “dedicated to all the people living in cities and who have developed new lifestyles in these urban surroundings. Speed, technological awareness, openness and flexibility characterise those people”. Disney was invited to celebrate the great German premiere of TRON:LEGACY after Michalsky’s show, motivating as a link between the movie and his brands crations the theme of “humanity in a highly technological world”.
This designer’s statement declares his fashion as “made in Germany, starting with pattern cutting and sampling in Munich leading to production in Cottbus.” AW 2011 collection proposes under voluminous hair a serie of slender figures that lead from the pret à porter to evening dresses ont ones of blue and black in contrast with the use of gold.
With his tenth collection, “Principles of Disarrangement”, Vladimir Karaleev continues the creative process he has followed since founding his label of the same name. Clear, basic forms and geometric, austere lines define the overall aesthetic of the individual pieces, and are supported by a carefully considered colour palate. Wools in sand to dark earthy tones are combined with equally dark and powerful blues. The unfinished appearance of the garments, with their open seams and frayed edges is a typical quality of Vladimir Karaleev’s designs that can be seen in his previous collections. To complement the collection Vladimir Karaleev has also designed his first shoe collection.
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